A Latticework Gown

This drawing by Caroline Siedle is for a costume from an unknown production. The dress features ribbon latticework, a decorative element that is seen in various other Siedle designs; bodice, skirt and sleeves are all created using this technique, resulting in a net of ribbon over the entire figure. At first glance this appears to be a modest gown, but on closer inspection one realizes this isn’t the case; this lovely design might fool the unsuspecting viewer.

Siedle was no stranger to the idea of costumes that revealed the figure, and was well familiar with the need to provide more visual thrills to the tired businessmen in the audience. In this case, the skirt is slit on both sides from hem to waist, giving ample opportunity to view the wearer's legs as she moved about the stage. On the back of the board, Siedle instructs that the gown is to have no petticoat, instead there should be flesh colored tights and lavender stockings. The neckline of the gown is cut quite low underneath the mesh of ribbon, creating an overall sense of a game of peekaboo. 

The drawing is done in tones of lavender and white, with silver gilt highlights on the intersections of the latticework. It appears that Siedle originally considered including a low hanging heart necklace/pendant as part of the ensemble, as it can be seen sketched in pencil below the waist, but she apparently decided against the idea.

Unfortunately this drawing has been trimmed into an oval shape. While this hasn’t damaged the lovely image, it does remove any possible notes written in the corners, which might have helped identify the intended character or performer. Of course it is possible there were no useful notes, as frequently happens on Siedle designs. The drawing does have a long description on the back concerning construction details of the dress, written in Siedle's characteristically difficult to read handwriting - several words are either illegible or missing:

Satin dress cut extremely fashionably. 

The white satin ribbon forms lattice & is fastened where crossed with ornament & ends in points all over skirt & from the point is a full accordion pleated deep flounce. 

The skirt is cut up on either side of front & is fastened at top with three of the buttons & cord which runs all down the sides. 

Skirt is lined in white satin - Ruffle of transparent goods at bottom edge.

Lavender satin ribbons, no petticoat but flesh color at top of tights to waist & lavender stockings and shoes.

Underwaist of lavender is cut low - the sleeves have no lining if can be made without. 

Toque tam’o shanter of white satin with gathered satin ribbon in rings shaded violet - good white feather.

Shoulders bare - White net short drawers & also at sides - garters of white satin.