Miss Kitty Gordon

This is another mystery design; it does provide a clue, but I’m not entirely certain where it leads me. This is a lovely stylish dress with floral decoration, and hat, in Siedle’s classic black and white style. The dress appears to be heavily sequined or beaded. The drawing has remnants of glitter, showing how the finished dress would have sparkled in the stage lights.

The back of the board is covered in notes concerning the construction of the hat, along with a sketch detailing the cut and decoration of the back of the dress. It reads:

 

"The picture hat can be of Malines net, blk, showered with small silver spangles. The edge can have band or broad binding of jet. Crown of silver spangles with ruche of blk net all round . Crown can be round in shape. A fine white agret? (egret) at side & ostrich plume over crown & on hair fastener with shaped rhinestone buckle."

 

Maline is a very fine, soft, gauze-like material originally from Belgium, sometimes used for veiling. It sounds as though this would be a very delicate hat! 

At the bottom of the drawing is the name “Miss Kitty Gordon”. Kitty Gordon was a British actress who arrived on Broadway in 1905 in Veronique, the operetta by Andre Messager. The production was imported from England with its original cast, including Gordon in the role of Agathe, and presumably used the original sets and costumes. 

The credits I’ve seen for Veronique do not list a costume designer, but this was the only Broadway production Gordon was in before Siedle’s death in 1907. Perhaps this costume was designed for that show; but the story was set in Paris in 1840, which doesn’t seem completely compatible with this design.

Kitty Gordon played and toured in this production into 1906, then made a brief foray into vaudeville. In April, 1906, an ad in the newspaper Every Evening (Wilmington, Delaware) lists Kitty Gordon and her Broadway Broilers on the bill at Garrick's Theatre, and a review in the same paper praised the act. However by May of that year, the Washington Times stated she was giving up the act and returning to England. Gordon would return to the USA in a couple years for a longer stay in vaudeville and on Broadway, even venturing into early silent films. The photo on the right from 1907 shows her wearing a somewhat similar dress.

Perhaps the dress shown in this sketch was commissioned from Siedle for Gordon’s fling in vaudeville? It’s difficult to say without more visual information.

Newspaper Coverage

It was not unusual for Caroline Siedle to be mentioned in newspaper blurbs about upcoming productions, but on several occasions her costumes were singled out for description and particular notice. A few examples follow - often with misspellings of her name.

From the Jennings Daily Record, December 8, 1902, concerning The Daughter of Hamilcar: 

The most unique feature of the production of Blanche Walsh's new play based on "Salammbo" are the costumes designed by Mrs. Seidle. 

 

The dress which Miss Walsh wears in the first act is composed of several layers of silk gauzes, the outside of which is black, the next two of different shades of blue, and the last of pink. Under this nothing is worn except fleshings. Each gauze is embroidered with poppies and other floral suggestions of the period, the outer gauze being decorated with vari-colored gems surrounded by thousands of gold spangles. 

 

Ten seamstresses were at work on these spangles for two weeks night and day, each separate spangle having to be sewn on by hand with silk thread. The general effect of the costume amounts to a sensation, as the whole scheme of transparencies betrays the natural outlines of the figure with more or less definition according to the varying poses of the actress and the position of the lights thrown on her.

Another descriptive mention can be found in a January 2nd, 1906 review of It Happened in Nordland, from The Evening Star of Washington D.C.; Sadly, I've not seen any images of these particular costumes!

“It Happened in Nordland” is a vehicle constructed to convey (Lew) Fields, several other comedians and comediennes and a galaxy of pretty and talented girls through a kaleidoscopic series of beautiful stage pictures. For instance, a song (sung) by Harry Davenport, entitled “Absinthe Frappe”, is rendered with the assistance of a chorus clad in filmy garments of greenish hue, and employing tiny electric lights of the same shade. And so, for every number there was a change of costume by the very hard-worked, but superbly trained chorus.

A pair of gowns seen in the 1900 production In the Palace of the King merited a full, if somewhat hyperbolic, description in the Jersey City News, November 4, 1901. Photos from the production are from the collection of The Museum of the City of New York: 

The clothes worn by Miss Viola Allen in "The Palace of the King," are of interest to the student of dress and the artist, says Anne Rittenhouse, in the Philadelphia “Press.”

Not a woman in the audience but wonders where she found such costumes and where such needlework was done.

The play is in the time of Phillip II of Spain, and, therefore, brings to the modern playgoer an atmosphere little known.  

Spanish court ladies dressed magnificently in those days. Spain was mighty, and its women showed its wealth in superb brocades, ropes of jewels and magnificent needle work.

It is no easy task to get up such gowns. Mr. Marion Crawford, the author, treated his subject with historical accuracy, and it was only fair to him that the gowns should not transgress any law of the times.

I was very much interested in two gowns especially. These were worn by Miss Allen. One was a mantle, not a gown, but voluminous enough to have served as a room robe. The needlework was so beautiful on these and the work so intricate that I was sure they were not picked up at an hour’s notice.  

Miss Allen was glad to tell of them, and the story of their making will surely interest every woman. 

Mrs. Seidle took hold of the task of getting the star’s gowns as soon as Mr. Crawford’s story was decided on. She went to Madrid for the purpose and there got admission into the famous museum, which holds many wonderful souvenirs of Spain's past greatness. 
Costumes are preserved there that belonged to royalty in the days when the armada was to be feared. 

Mrs. Seidle studied these clothes for weeks. She sketched them also. The white ball costume she copied exactly; this is the one Miss Allen wears when she goes to the ball. And the dark, splendid mantle was also copied after one on exhibition. To hold these in the hands is to know just what skill and care has gone into their making. 

Yards and yards of silver embroidery are on the satin gown. And the mantle, made of a specially woven fabric, is one splendid showing of cloth of gold and gold embroidery. Just such handiwork does the traveler see in the priests’ robes in the rich towns of France and Spain. 

All the clothes worn are marvelous in texture and coloring, but these two pieces are not only splendid but of exceeding interest because they are exact reproductions of famous ones and because of the skilled needlework shown on them.

And one more example, this time for the 1903 production of The Runaways. Caroline Siedle isn't mentioned by name, but the gowns in the story are her creations:

COSTLY GOWNS IN "THE RUNAWAYS"

 

The comic opera queens, the singers who attend Miss Erminie Earle in "The Runaways," include some of the prettiest show girls on the stage. They are ten in number and are one of the features of the song hit, "Susannah of Urbana," in which their gorgeous gowns form the ever-twinkling background for the comedian. These gowns just escape the ground, to give the dancers freedom of action, and are of white silk net spangled with silver and appliqued with black velvet ribbon. The drop skirts are of rich orange silk, and when the girls dance, the color effect is brilliant, especially when a moving picture effect is turned on them by the calcium light. Two million spangles of the lightest weight, known as gelatin spangles, are employed on these gowns, and as each one is attached to a short cord of silver bullion to secure a better effect as the dancers whirl-about, it required three weeks work by a girl to complete the spangles of each gown. Nor was the work finished when the gowns left the costumers. One man is now employed every day in the sewing room at the theater to keep the gowns in repair, as the rapid movements of the dancers send the spangles flying in a shower over the stage every night.

 

Unfortunately, the tinted postcard shown above doesn't give the effect of the orange silk skirts! 

Happyland - 1905 Shepherd and Sphinxus

Here are two male designs by Caroline Siedle for Happyland; a chorus gent and a leading player. Siedle obviously designed for both men and women, but the male costumes tend to be overshadowed by the elaborate gowns created for the ladies.

The chorus design is for 16 shepherds, the whole male chorus, in the second act of the show. The simple toga-style outfit with a fleece tossed over the shoulder leaves no doubt as to their profession, together with a horn, flask and shepherd’s crook. The same chorus gents would appear as soldiers later in the act, so it’s pleasant to see their bucolic side! The rear of the board reads “Chorus men from 31 to 46” (totaling 16), and “cloak golden brown for color”. There appears to be a fair amount of green on the cloak in the drawing, as well as the hat and accessories, so perhaps this was a change of plan on Siedle’s part. 

The other piece is a first act design for Sphinxus, the Royal Secret Keeper. He’s shown with his secret-keeping apparatus - looking very much like an old fashioned telephone. Confiders could speak their secrets into the mouthpiece and keep them secure unless someone - usually Sphinxus himself - decided to listen in. The drawing is labeled “Sphinxus - Act II”, but photos show this as a first act costume.

At some point in time several costumes in this show were redesigned, this being one of them. Here’s the same scene as shown above, with different outfits on Sphinxus and the King. Sylvia’s dress did not change.

I’ve mentioned before that costume designs are often subject to wear and damage; for this show, there seems to have been some sort of water leakage that affected many of the drawings. Most of the designs I've seen from this production have water damage to some degree, some definitely worse than others. This tends to make me think that the damage happened at an earlier date, before the suites of costume designs were broken up and disposed of individually. It’s unfortunate, but at least the drawings themselves do still exist!

Happyland - 1905 Chorus Ladies

This striking design is another by Caroline Siedle for Happyland, the 1905 DeWolf Hopper vehicle. These  dresses were worn by the Reaper Girls, in the opening choruses of the show. The bold use of poppy orange would be a dazzling effect spread over six chorus ladies. 

The drawing is labeled “Reaper Girls Act 1”, and shows the figure with a sheaf of wheat and poppies. The sleeves of her dress are tightly pleated, as is her skirt, mimicking the poppy flowers in her hands. There are remnants of an earlier design for a large hat, which was changed to the simpler hood, a sort of Phrygian cap, seen in the final drawing. On the rear of the board is a two line note, reading “Full orange poppies” above the words “golden corn” which have been crossed out and replaced by “wheat”, and underlined three times.

The Reaper Girls were paired with an equal number of Reaper Boys, also played by women. I have an image of a design that I think is for the Reaper Boys, dressed in brick red, shown below. I’m not certain where this image came from, but there’s a good chance it’s from the Shubert Archive. The reapers performed a sickle dance during the opening numbers of the show, distributing flowers among the chorus of Elysian Maidens on stage. 

 

Here we have an Act II design, this time for two chorus ladies dressed as "Lily Girls - Act II Chorus Ladies". The opening of the second act featured a procession that included pairs of Lily, Rose, Violet, and Mignotte girls. The white gown shading to gold mimics the look of a lily in bloom, complete with leafy tendrils cascading from the shoulders.

This show is a surprising example of Caroline Siedle not receiving credit for her costume designs. It’s unusual to see her overlooked at this date, when demand for her work was at its height. Newspaper articles announcing upcoming productions regularly mentioned when the costumes "are being designed by Mme. Siedle" or "Seidle", or "Seidel", etc...but apparently not in this case.

I’m currently aware of about a dozen designs by Siedle for the show, several of which are backed up by stage photos, but in the program it appears the Eaves Costume Co. was credited for the costumes. Like Dazian’s and E. Castel Bert, Eaves was another costume supplier who created their own designs, but would also build designs by others.

Happyland - 1905 Sylvia

 DeWolf Hopper was the star of Happyland, but another rising star was Marguerite Clark. The diminutive Clark made her Broadway debut in 1900, at the age of 17. In 1903 she starred with DeWolf Hopper in Mr. Pickwick, and in 1904 she was a replacement in the role of Contrary Mary in Babes in Toyland. She rejoined Hopper in 1905 for Happyland, playing his daughter Sylvia. The six-foot six-inch Hopper and the four-foot ten-inch Clark made an amusing visual pair on the stage.

In 1914 Clark began to star in silent films, including the influential 1916 version of Snow White, a role she had previously played on Broadway in 1912. Her popularity rivaled Mary Pickford on the screen. She retired in 1921, and the majority of her films are considered lost today.

Caroline Siedle designed costumes for Clark in several shows; The Belle of Bohemia in 1900, The New Yorkers in 1901, The Wild Rose in 1902. In Happyland, Clark played the Princess Sylvia, an unbelievably innocent young woman. Siedle's design is a simple Grecian-styled white gown, with sparkling decorative trim. The drawing uses silver glitter to simulate the shine of the trim. 

In the course of the show Clark changes to a boy's outfit, as seen in the poster above. Her character is ingenuous enough to be uncertain whether she is male or female, adding to the general confusion of the story. Of course everyone is happily paired off by the end of the show, even the king; married to a wife who should be able to make him unhappy, his greatest wish!

Happyland - 1905

Happyland was a 1905 vehicle created for DeWolf Hopper, which successfully played on Broadway before touring well into 1909. Hopper was a perennial favorite of audiences, and a large figure on the stage (literally). He’s probably best known today for his recitations of Casey at the Bat; he also married numerous times, providing his name to 5th wife Hedda Hopper.

The show dealt with the problems of the King of Elysia, played by Hopper, who is the one discontented person in a perfect land. He attempts to sow discord among his subjects by insisting they all marry, but finds that even that drastic idea doesn't help! Along with this, he has the dilemma of having promised his son in marriage to the daughter of a neighboring king, when of age, and the time has arrived to fulfill that promise; but he has no son, only a daughter…who he does try to pass off as a son. As it turns out, the neighboring king has no daughter so that problem eventually works itself out.

A working copy of the original script is shown above, from the collection of the New York Public Library. The script includes two laid-in sheets detailing costuming needs, including the change of 8 Elysian Maidens to 6 Palm Girls, and the list of chorus ladies chosen. 

 Here we have Siedle’s costume design for "Maidens of Elysia - Act I - Chorus Ladies". This notation on the bottom of the board has been crossed out with red pencil and changed to "6 Palm Girls".  On the back of the board is a list of chorus ladies playing the roles. 

Siedle has chosen a Grecian theme to style the costumes for the show, an appropriate choice as the Elysian Fields were a concept of Greek mythology, a paradise in the afterlife where the most righteous dwell. Loose flowing gowns with ribbon ties and pastel colors were featured, with the overall design of set and costumes modeled after the look of Lawrence Alma-Tadema's painting Sappho and Alcaeus.

Bird Center - 1904

Bird Center began in 1903 as a series of panel cartoons by John T. McCutcheon, outlining the doings of the inhabitants of a small midwestern town in Illinois. The satiric simplicity of the town, compared to the bustle of contemporary city living, proved popular; perhaps similar in some ways to the tales of Lake Wobegon, told by Garrison Keillor.

The original comics were single panels, accompanied by a few paragraphs of text explaining the activities pictured.   

The series became so popular that in 1904 the comics were turned into a stage show, staged by Julian Mitchell and written by Glen MacDonough, the same team responsible for recent musical extravaganza hits like The Wizard of Oz and Babes in Toyland. Unfortunately Bird Center (which was a play) failed to find an audience, closing after 13 performances. According to the December 3rd, 1904 Rock Island Argus:

 “Bird Center”, which opened the season in Peoria and this city early in the fall, has fallen with the daisies. It hardly endured until the frost. It was very funny in some places, but when it struck New York it received a chilly reception that was felt clear back in the box office, and the treasurer shriveled up and died.”

Caroline Siedle was once again enlisted to provide costume designs for this show, and it appears her choices hewed closely to the descriptions from the actual comics. This design was for 8 bridesmaids. Fortunately it is labeled “8 Bridesmaids for Bird Centre”, otherwise I’d probably never have figured out its use! In the comic, there is a wedding celebration with a description of the single bridesmaid:

“The bridesmaid carried pink roses and wore a dress of pink mulls trimmed with cheny lace and ribbons.”

Mulls is a lightweight fabric, like a fine muslin. I haven't found a specific description for cheny lace, but it must be one of the many varieties of lace-making that exist!

 

The drawing has a number of notes and small sketches on the back, detailing aspects of the design.  Siedle's handwriting can sometimes be quite difficult to decipher, especially as the notes are in pencil and somewhat rubbed with time!